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Why and how to varnish your didgeridoo?

Some didgeridoo who are waiting for the varnish to dry

This article is an automatic translation, it will be proofread and corrected by a “human” translator. If you want to help translate Wakademy, feel free to contact me!

The varnish is an important step which, in addition to protecting your didgeridoo, will improve its sound quality. It remains to know the stages of varnishing and what type of varnish to use! Should I varnish my didgeridoo and if so how do I do it? First of all, you must know that varnishing your didgeridoo will automatically modify its characteristics. However, it is no coincidence that the polish has been accepted by most didgeridoo manufacturers. Let’s take a little tour in the world of varnish!

The advantages of a varnished didgeridoo

A more finely tuned didgeridoo sound

When I speak of varnishing his didgeridoo, I mean the inside of the instrument. Obviously, the exterior is also very important! Varnishing your didgeridoo is not trivial. Any change in the air column, thickness and size of your didgeridoo will change the sound. However, be aware that almost all contemporary high-end didgeridoos have a very smooth air column. So you take little risk to clean the inside of your didgeridoo and there is a good chance that your didgeridoo will sound better! Remember that the smoother and brighter the air column, the clearer and more airy the sound. In short, by varnishing your piece of wood, you will give it more harmonics and at the same time a less earthy sound.
So on a contemporary didgeridoo this seems quite justified. On the other hand, on a traditional didgeridoo, the varnish would be more than a shame! Indeed, in the traditional, the hoarse aspect of the sound is sought.

Limit the risk of your didgeridoo cracking

Cracks are the didgeridoo player’s haunt! Even if repairing them is not very complicated for most of them, it is better to minimize their occurrence. Overall, there are five risks of cracks in a didgeridoo:

  • The fall: ouch, it always hurts to see your friend fall …
  • The heat: don’t leave your didgeridoo in the car in the middle of summer!
  • Temperature differences: blowing a didgeridoo outside in the middle of winter. You will start a great fight: the warm air of your lungs versus the cold air of the climate. Risk of cracks insured!
  • The thickness of the wood: the didgeridoo can have tensions due to design errors of the manufacturer. It can then crack for no apparent reason.
  • Humidity: it seems pretty obvious but without protection, wood drinks (yes wood drinks ?). It then swells, then dries, then swells again … etc and will certainly end up cracking … It is especially in the latter case that the varnish will protect it and it is already good!

Prepare your didgeridoo

Before varnishing your didgeridoo, you will have to go through a few steps! Very often, the didgeridoos that you want to varnish are entry-level instruments, the high-end didgeridoos being already varnished (see also:5 top-of-the-range didgeridoo crafter you should know ). They are therefore rough inside and out.

The first step will therefore be to clean the inside of the remaining chips and sand it as much as possible with sandpaper. Yes I see you coming… Sanding the inside of a didg is not easy!
If you lack the courage, at least remove the shavings, it will already be very good. To do this, take a gouge and attach it to a threaded rod or other improvised “handle”. The goal is to lengthen the tool to reach the inside. You can also DIY the same thing but with sandpaper.

Gouge for woodworking

A gouge is a tool from the chisel and wood chisel family. Instead of having a straight edge, it is rounded. Perfect for our didgeridoo!

What type of varnish to use to varnish your didgeridoo?

This is THE tricky question! And yet it quickly becomes inevitable. Just take a look at Casto or Leroy Merlin to get an idea of the many choices of varnish. To summarize the problem, there are two main categories of varnish:

Natural varnishes

Even if the natural side is very tempting, they are not very suitable for the didgeridoo … Linseed oil, possibly associated with castor oil, is certainly the star of varnishes. It offers, for the furniture, a natural and very pleasant rendering. Unfortunately, the didgeridoo requires very good resistance to water and humidity. I’ve often heard that didgeridoos protected by linseed oil end up re-opening (in the case of sandwich didgeridoos) or cracking up. It is therefore a solution that I would not necessarily recommend even if, being green at heart (like many didgeridoo players!), The natural side still appeals to me a lot.

Synthetic varnishes

Welcome to modern chemistry … It is always distressing to note it but very often synthetic products offer better resistance to natural varnishes… (I still have trouble writing it!)… Anyway, to each of us to have one reasoned use.
In this category of varnish, two seem to have the pride of didgeridoo do-it-yourselfers:

      • The first is a water-dilutable sealer of the Biorethane type which Stephane Bouillet talks about on his blog. Biolodidje (Fr).
      • The second are all the aquarethane varnishes cited in this post of France-didgeridoo (French)
      • Some manufacturers say that water-based varnishes provide an unreliable seal. The top, in terms of resistance, remaining a kind of polyurethane varnish today only accessible to professionals …

Epoxy

Epoxy can be a great way to protect your didgeridoo instead of varnish. This last method just requires more care in dosing and handling. You can take a look at this post from France-didgeridoo about resin epoxy and didgeridoo (Fr).

As an aside: tips and tricks

To varnish the inside of your didgeridoo, take a 50cl plastic bottle, fill it with varnish. Then take your didgeridoo (after removing the beeswax mouthpiece, read also: 4 steps to make your beeswax mouthpiece for your didgeridoo) and place the bell in a basin or other container. Pour the bottle of varnish through the mouthpiece while turning the didgeridoo. Collect the varnish at the bottom of the didgeridoo and repeat until the entire interior is covered with varnish.

Conclusion: yes to varnish your didgeridoo but not just any old way!

If the reasons for varnishing his instrument are rather well accepted by the majority of didgeridoo players. There is still the art and the way to apply it. Traditionally, the didgeridoo is an instrument played without internal protection by the Aborigines. But the latter are not very eye-catching on the cracks and most traditional didgeridoos end up covered in shatertone from head to toe!

You too can share your didgeridoo-esque vernissage experience. Your experience will certainly be of use to other players!

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14 responses to “Why and how to varnish your didgeridoo?”

  1. Yves Grevet Avatar
    Yves Grevet

    I just read that linseed oil heated between 50° and 60° is more penetrating than cold

    (https://www.apiculture.net/huiles-cire-pour-le-bois/2180-huile-de-lin-5l.html)

    What do you think about it?

    Automatically translated from French · See the original

    Je viens de lire que l’huile de lin chauffé entre 50° et 60° et plus pénétrante que froide

    (https://www.apiculture.net/huiles-cire-pour-le-bois/2180-huile-de-lin-5l.html)

    Qu’est ce que vous en pensez ?

    1. You’d almost want to ask questions on the forum rather than in the comments. But maybe you’ll get an answer here?
      In any case, personally I strongly recommend varnish on the inside of the didge. It’s great for both the sound and moisture resistance.

      Automatically translated from French · See the original

      Il faudrait presque poser la question sur le forum que dans les commentaires. Mais peut-être auras-tu une réponse ici ?
      En tout cas, perso je conseille vivement le vernis à l’intérieur du didge. Que ce soit pour le son et la résistance à l’humidité.

      1. Yves Grevet Avatar
        Yves Grevet

        Indeed, I always test my didges in the rough; and the sound becomes much cleaner once varnished!

        Automatically translated from French · See the original

        En effet, je teste toujours mes didgs brut; et le son devient beaucoup plus “propre” une fois vernis !

      2. Yeah, it’s crazy how much it changes. Harmonics love varnish. 😀

        Automatically translated from French · See the original

        Oui c’est fou comme ça change. Les harmoniques aiment le vernis. 😀

  2. Stéphane Avatar
    Stéphane

    Linseed oil was originally used by cartwright makers and applied hot (heated in a bain-marie and often combined with turpentine). So while it does have advantages because it “lubricates” the wood, it also “tightens” the fibers, crystallizes in a way… which causes the wood to lose its ability to adapt to conditions within the tolerance range of 8 to 13% humidity.

    I’m not at all surprised to learn that the wood cracks and splits…

    Varnishes for boats, gum arabic, matin and carnauba wax are certainly more demanding in terms of maintenance, but they protect while allowing the living material of your instrument to express itself, which is important.

    Carnauba wax has the advantage that once dry and polished, it hardens like a varnish without softening at the temperature of your hands. Several coats can be applied.

    I’ve even used it on stair treads! Excellent balance between mechanical resistance and protection of the wood, a living material by definition that must breathe.

    Automatically translated from French · See the original

    L’huile de lin à l’origine était utilisée par les charrons et appliquée à chaud (chauffée à bain marie et souvent associée à de la térébenthine)
    Ainsi elle a certes des avantages car “graisse” le bois mais également mais “tend” les fibres, cristallise en quelque sorte …ce qui fait perdre au bois ses possibilités d’adaptation aux conditions dans les tolérances entre 8 et 13% d’hygrométrie.
    Je ne suis pas du tout surpris d’apprendre que le bois craque et se fissure….
    Les vernis pour bateau, gomme arabique, mâtine et cire de carnauba sont certes plus contraignants à l’entretien mais protège en laissant la matière vivante de votre instrument s’exprimer, c’est important.
    La cire de carnauba à l’avantage une fois sèche et lustrée de se durcir comme un vernis sans se ramollir a la température de vos mains. Plusieurs couche peuvent être appliquée.
    Il m’est arrivé de l’utiliser pour des marches d’escalier! excellent rapport entre la résistance mécanique et la protection du bois, matériau vivant par définition et qui doit respirer.

    1. Thanks Stephane for this informative comment! 🙂

      Automatically translated from French · See the original

      Merci Stephane pour ce commentaire plein d’infos ! 🙂

  3. Colas Avatar
    Colas

    Hi!

    Linseed oil from hardware stores is always mixed with stuff that’s generally not written on the bottle… the best thing is to try to find good organic oil, it’s the only way to know if it will be pure.

    But honestly, using oil from hardware stores works really well. And I didn’t find that turpentine essence was necessary, actually you shouldn’t hesitate to do lots of coats. The wood drinks it, you add more, it drinks again, etc…. David Defois who makes turned wooden didgs fills his didgs with oil, with plugs, and waits for it to come out the other side through the wood!! without going that far I think it shows well the penetrating power of oil, it’s just a matter of time and it will drink 🙂 Knowing him I don’t think he cuts his oil with anything, I could be wrong but I think it’s just simple pure organic linseed oil.

    Automatically translated from French · See the original

    Salut !

    L’huile de lin des grandes surfaces de bricolage est toujours mélangée avec des trucs, qui sont en général pas écrits sur la bouteille… le mieux est d’essayer d’en dénicher une bonne huile bio c’est le seul moyen de savoir si elle va être pure.

    Mais bon, e pratique l’huile des grandes surfaces ça marche très bien. Et j’ai pas trouvé que l’essence de térébenthine était nécessaire, en fait faut pas hésiter à faire beaucoup de passages. Le bois boit, tu en remets, ça re-boit, etc…. David Defois qui fait des didgs en bois tournés rempli ses didgs d’huile, avec des bouchons, et attend que ça sorte de l’autre côté à travers le bois !! sans aller jusque là je pense que ça montre bien le pouvoir pénétrant de l’huile, question de temps et ça va boire 🙂 Le connaissant je pense pas qu’il coupe son huile à quoi que ce soit, je peux me tromper mais je pense que c’est juste de l’huile de lin bio et pure, toute simple.

    1. geoffroy Tengo Frio ! Avatar
      geoffroy Tengo Frio !

      Hello,

      I’m based in Bordeaux.
      I’m not very careful with my things, so I’d like to leave my didge with someone competent to repair a crack, fix the mouthpiece, and apply varnish (if necessary) to my didge.

      If you know anyone in the area who’s competent, I’m interested!

      Thanks

      Automatically translated from French · See the original

      Bonjour,

      Je suis basé sur Bordeaux.
      Je ne suis pas du tout soigneux, j’aimerais donc laisser mon didg à quelqu’un de compétent pour réparer une fissure, rectifier l’embouchure, et appliquer un vernis (si nécessaire) sur mon didg,

      Si vous connaissez dans la région une personne compétente je suis preneur !

      Merci

      1. Hello Geoffroy,

        You could check out Horizonde Didgeridoo.

        http://horizonde-didgeridoo.com

        I think he should be able to help you!

        Automatically translated from French · See the original

        Bonjour Geoffroy,

        Tu peux regarder du côté de Horizonde Didgeridoo.

        http://horizonde-didgeridoo.com

        Je pense qu’il devrait pouvoir t’aider !

      2. geoffroy Tengo Frio ! Avatar
        geoffroy Tengo Frio !

        Thank you so much!

        I’m calling you right away!

        Automatically translated from French · See the original

        Merciiii

        Je l’appelle directe !

  4. Colas Avatar
    Colas

    Well, I’m far from being a pro anyway, finishing is really a matter of taste and colors!

    I think a well-made wooden didgeridoo has little chance of cracking or reopening if it’s properly crafted, depending on the wood piece and its constraints. If the wood wants to move though, even a good varnish can’t hold it back. And if it’s fairly stable, oil still provides good protection against moisture, enough so that the wood doesn’t move.

    The thing with oil is to put a lot of it!! And to reapply it regularly. David (kan ar ch’oad) fills his didgs with oil using stoppers, and he waits for it to seep out on the outside…

    Automatically translated from French · See the original

    Ben après je suis loin d’être un pro, la finition c’est beaucoup une question de goût et de couleurs !

    Je pense qu’un didg de bonne facture a peu de chances de fendre ou de se rouvrir s’il est bien fait, par rapport à la pièce de bois et ses contraintes. Si le bois veut bouger par contre, même un bon vernis ne peut pas le retenir. Et si il est plutôt stable, l’huile assure quand même une bonne protection contre l’humidité, assez pour que le bois ne bouge pas.

    Le truc avec l’huile c’est d’en mettre beaucoup !! Et d’en remettre régulièrement. David (kan ar ch’oad) remplit ses didgs d’huile avec des bouchons, et il attend que ça suinte à l’extérieur…

    1. kiffer jnicolas Avatar
      kiffer jnicolas

      Should it be filled with linseed oil, or a mixture of linseed oil/turpentine? Because for wood maintenance, adding turpentine is always recommended to help the oil penetrate!

      Automatically translated from French · See the original

      Il faut remplir d’huile de lin, ou d’un mélange huile de lin/essence de thérébentine? Parce que pour l’entretien du bois, l’ajout d’essence de thérébentine est toujours conseillée pour faire pénétrer l’huile!

  5. Colas Avatar
    Colas

    Quality varnish AND applied by a pro, that’s good 🙂

    If that’s not the case, in the long run varnish will mess up your didge… on the first sandidgs I made 8-10 years ago the varnish really looks awful, to the point that I don’t dare play one of them anymore because I think what’s flaking off is floating inside the didge. It’s an extreme case of course, with low-quality aquarethane and definitely not applied properly…

    To get a good varnish finish you need to find the right one first, then learn how to use it, and especially play the didge for a few years to see how it evolves!

    Oil has none of these downsides, it’s easy to apply, non-toxic, and honestly it protects well… enough for what we do with our pieces of wood (except for street players, there varnish is actually a bit of an advantage)

    Your text is aimed at people who have a didge without varnish, that usually excludes commercial sandidgs. On a termite-hollowed euca, a teak or a bored euca, no saw marks 🙂 on a didge like that I’d slap linseed oil on without hesitation!

    Automatically translated from French · See the original

    Un vernis de qualité ET appliqué par un pro, c’est bien 🙂

    Si c’est pas le cas, à long terme un vernis ça te salope un didg… sur les premiers sandidgs que j’ai fait y a 8-10 ans le vernis tire vraiment une sale tronche, au point que l’un d’entre eux j’ose plus le jouer parce que je pense que ce qui s’effrite est en suspension dans le didg. C’est un cas extrême bien sûr, avec un aquaréthane de mauvaise qualité et sûrement pas appliqué comme il faut…

    Pour bien réussir un vernis faut déjà trouver le bon, puis apprendre à l’utiliser, et surtout jouer le didg quelques années voir comment ça évolue !

    L’huile n’a aucun de ces défauts, c’est facile à appliquer, non toxique, et franchement ça protège bien… assez pour l’usage qu’on fait de nos bouts de bois (à part pour les joueurs de rue, là le vernis est quand même un petit plus)

    Ton texte s’adresse à des gens qui ont un didg pas vernis, en général ça exclut les sandidgs du commerce. Sur un euca termité, un teck ou un euca percé, pas de trait de coupe 🙂 dans un didg comme ça je balancerais de l’huile de lin sans hésiter une seconde !

    1. Thanks Colas for sharing your experience. It’s good to have different bell sounds since I’d always heard that linseed oil wasn’t optimal.
      Definitely worth testing! Admittedly, I’m much more of a player than a maker, so I’ll leave it to the skilled tinkerers! 🙂

      Automatically translated from French · See the original

      Merci Colas pour ton partage d’expérience. C’est bien d’avoir des sons de cloches différents car j’avais toujours entendu que l’huile de lin n’était pas optimale.
      À tester donc ! Indéniablement, je suis bien plus joueur que fabricant donc je laisse la parole aux bricoleurs avertis ! 🙂

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